Tea Brewing Guide

Reputable top quality green tea is produced meticulously using fine tender buds and has the unique characteristics of jade green color, pervasive aroma, intense full-bodied taste and beautiful shape. Therefore the correct method of tea brewing is to fully manifest these four characteristics so as to realize the aesthetic appreciation and enjoyment of the tea. To achieve this objective, we need to master the four basic steps of utensil selection, water temperature control, manner of tea feeding and infusion technique.

Utensil Selection

Crystal clear and transparent top quality glassware should be selected for brewing of top grade fine green tea. Besides enhancing visual aesthetics, the use of glass also facilitates the appreciation of infusion color as well as the gradual tea bud reactions of unfolding, flotation and migration in the infusion, which is fantasized as the ‘dance of tea’. This can be further dramatized by holding a glass of tea infusion silhouetted against sunlight or lamp light. Infiltrating from behind, the light illuminates the floating and migrating fine furry tips which glitter on reflection like a dispersal of starry sparkles, arousing a dreamy illusion.

Either porcelain cup or covered bowl could be used for brewing of medium to high grade tea. For low to medium grade, normal tea pot could also be used. Tea pot has a bigger volume. On filling with hot water, its temperature can be maintained for a longer time. This helps in more effective dissolution of nutrition from the coarse tea leaves. However, if the tea pot is used in brewing top grade high quality green tea, the temperature of the infusing hot water cannot drop as timely as desired. It can then ‘overcook’ the tender buds, resulting in the loss of the refreshing aroma and freshness in taste!

Water Temperature Control

Historically, it has been the tradition of Chinese tea connoisseurs to place special emphasis on water quality and infusion temperature. Water from the mountain is considered the top quality; from the river and stream, medium quality and from the well, the lowest quality.
Emperor Huizong of Sung Dynasty, Chao Ji elaborated on the prerequisites of top quality water in more explicit terms:-

It must be clear, free of any suspended matters, colorless, transparent and free of any sedimentation.

It must be light. This is logical scientifically as the lighter water should have lesser dissolved mineral matters or other unwanted chemical dosage, which would invariably taint the natural taste of tea infusion.

It must be ‘sweet’ to the taste buds, rendering a pleasant sense of lingering freshness, which would surely complement and enhance the natural taste of tea.

It must be cold. Because cold water has its source in the deep sub-strata of the ground and hence, is free from any pollutions.

Source of water must be ‘living’, meaning that it is flowing continuously. It is proven that bacteria cannot easily multiply in flowing water. The relatively higher content of dissolved oxygen, carbon dioxide and other gases in flowing water has self-purifying effect and the resulting aeration improves the freshness and tastiness of tea infusion.

Having thus a good water source at the onset does not automatically assure satisfactory tea infusion. The next focus should now be devoted to appropriate water temperature control. Too high water temperature has the undesirable effect of ‘overcooking’ the ‘tea green’ in confinement, resulting in a yellowish and cloudy infusion which is much bitter in taste. Its substantial vitamin content could easily be destroyed.

Conversely, if the water temperature is too low, the essential elements in the tea leaves cannot be sufficiently dissolved, resulting in an infusion that is too light in taste. Sometimes, it also leads to the failure of the tea leaves to sink, which remain floating on the water. Consequently, drinking is much inconvenienced.

In general, the higher grade and more precious the fine tender tea is, the lower should the water temperature be. Water temperature ranging from 75°C to 80°C is suitable for Bi Lo Chun. Temperature range from 80°C to 85°C is suitable for other reputable fine tea. For medium to lower grade tea, hotter temperature range from 95°C to 100°C can be used.

Feeding of tea leaves

Three basic methods of leaf feeding are to be considered:-
Direct feeding into the glass before pouring the required quantity of water in one go is known as ‘bottom feeding’;

Firstly, feed tea leaves into the glass; then pour in boiled water cooled to 90°C till one third of glass volume and let it stand for about 3 minutes. When the soaked leaves have absorbed sufficient water and start to unfurl, fill the glass up to its full volume. This is known as ‘middle feeding’; and

The glass is firstly filled with 85°C~90°C boiled water. Tea leaves are then fed into the glass. This is known as top feeding.

Either top or middle feeding method is suitable for top grade teas such as Long Jing and Bi Lo Chun which are tightly furled and compacted in shape. Middle feeding method is suitable for top grade fine tea types which are loosely furled. Bottom feeding method is suitable for normal green tea types.

Water Pouring

Finally the skill of water pouring would determine the ultimate quality of tea infusion. Three basic techniques are to be mastered, viz.:-
With the water pot lifted high up above the glass, the hot water should be discharged at an oblige projectile, landing on the side of the glass so as to guide the water flow along the side wall as it feeds into the glass;

After water filling, whether the glass of infusion should be covered or not is dependent on the conditions of tea leaves, infusion water temperature and the prevailing weather. If the leaves (buds) are tender and water hot, it should not be covered during summer; otherwise, it should then be covered to steep the tea. During steeping of reputable top grade tea, it could be covered only for about one minute. The cover should then be taken off to await the gradual infusion of the essential elements from the leaves, whilst patiently inhaling the enduring aroma emanating from the infusion. The infusion should not be covered for too long to avoid ‘overcooking’ and consequently, spoiling the tea;

The follow-up rounds of water pouring should be performed consecutively on time. The first brew is called the ‘first unfurled tea’ or ‘upstream tea’. When the tea is drunk till about one third of the infusion is left, the glass should then be filled promptly. This is referred to as the ‘follow-up water’. If the follow-up water is poured too late (e.g. water is filled only when the first unfurled tea has been fully drunk), the second brew would inadvertently become rather diluted and tasteless.

*** Once the art of tea brewing as illustrated in the four basic steps recommended above is mastered, you can rest assured be capable of fully expressing the character of the tea by successfully preparing a good tea that has the right color, steep aroma and full-bodied taste***